Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
The Daniel Roth Collection...
Daniel Roth watches are characterised by their distinct case shape. In a 2003 description of the first iteration of the Papillon (more on that later!) Alberto Shileo writes on the occasion of the presentation of the original Papillon:
“Enough has certainly been said over time about the unique Daniel Roth case shape, which has been from the very beginning one of the symbols of the brand (all boxes and papers from that time are thus shaped). As far as I can tell from what I have seen, this has been one of the very few truly innovative case shapes to be introduced on the market in the past few decades. The combination of elliptical and straight segments makes the watch appear round, rectangular and tonneau all at once, and is one of the features which first attracted me to the brand.”
A second defining feature are the small and large complication which often represent unique implementations.
NOVELTIES:
- Daniel Roth Carillon Tourbillon
- Daniel Roth Papillon Voyageur
- Daniel Roth Endurer Chronosprint (steel bracelet, rubber strap)
Carillon Tourbillon
The first novelty to present is already what we would call a beat of the drum. Repeating tourbillons are ‘commonplace’ these days, but a carillon repeating mechanisms is still quite a feat.
The watch makes masterful use of the iconic case and copes well with the inherent limitations and challenges that do come along with designing a repeating movement in a shaped case.
The crown carries the individual watch number (limitation 30):
The first thing that attracts the eyes is the Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It can be admired through a cutout in the dial:
Upon close look you notice that the dial is made of a sapphire disk which does not attach to the case band or bezel.
The rationale is that this construction is said to help letting the sound of the case.
Actually, for a good reason since there are actually three stacked cathedral gongs, each of which individually shaped and bent by hand and then annealed at 900°C, cleaned and fired at 500°C.
The gongs are actuated by three individual hammers and strike a C-note for the hours, an E-D-C sequence for the quarters and an E-note for the minutes.
The repeater is actuated by a lever on the left case-side.
The chime is, as far as we can conclude, subtle, well timed and articulated:
On the backside, a marvellous repeating mechanism can be seen.
Note the specific shape on the minute rack’s teeth:
The movement houses two barrels providing a commendable power reserve of 75h. Its reserve is indicated on the back as well:
327 components make up this movement. Bulgari is rightfully proud of having developed and produced this watch in-house.
How does this 43mm watch wear on the wrist? Decide yourselves!
Papillon Voyageur
Bulgari also showed an upgraded version of its classic Papillon watch.
The Papillon displays the time by means of a jumping hour in combination with a rotating minute hand complication.
A second timezone is displayed in the centre of the dial and can easily be adjusted with the two pushers at 11 and 01 o’clock, respectively.
The minute hand wanders from left to right on the lower half of the dial and then starts again on the left.
Its quite fun to watch:
A Girard-Perregaux calibre drives this watch.
Endurer Chronosprint
The Endurer Chronosprint is the sporty complement to the Daniel Roth line. It has a somewhat unique complication consisting of a Grande Date mechanism and a simplified chronograph function which serves to measure long times.
A tricking feature is the black dial with its horizontal Geneva stripes.
Whereas traditional chronographs are generally used to measure short times on two to three counters, the Chronosprint function indicates the hours and minutes by two hands mounted on a single arbour.
One press on an ergonomically notched push-button at 7.30 positions the hands at 12 o’clock and starts the chronograph.
The movement is an automatic one based on Girard-Perregaux:
The watch itself was already presented in 2010, but this year saw the addition of a rubber strap...
... and a (quite well-made and comfortable) steel bracelet:
A very wearable watch, but, while technically advanced, it does not have the carefreeness of the iconic Diagono line (see separate post below).
More posts:
Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Bulgari
Dear All: we begin our series of Baselworld 2012 reports with the Bulgari company. Bulgari, formerly known as a jewellery/luxury brand made serious foray into the world of fine watches. It started already in 1977 with the launch of the BVLGARI BVLGARI wat...
The Daniel Roth Collection...
Daniel Roth watches are characterised by their distinct case shape. In a 2003 description of the first iteration of the Papillon (more on that later!) Alberto Shileo writes on the occasion of the presentation of the original Papillon: “Enough has certainl...
Nice to see the Endurer Chronosprint is available with a rubber strap
If the rubber strap is as comfortable as the Diagono X-Pro rubber strap (looks like similar construction), it'll make the Endurer an even more comfortable watch to wear on the wrist. And those who like bracelets will be happy to see a bracelet available f...
The Carillon Tourbillon repeater is exceptional
As you mentioned in a world where tourbillon repeaters are common place, (which is pretty crazy when you think about that sentence) there is something delightfully different about this one. The smokey grey collor and beveled edges of the movements is real...
"tourbillon repeaters are common place"...
that of course was written with a twinkle in the eye. Modern design and construction technologies make it much easier to construct complications (and combinations thereof) which were just impossible a few years ago. That still does not mean its easy, but ...
The Gerald Genta Collection...
This Collection dates back to the late famed watch designer bearing this name, Gerald Genta . Famous mostly for this iconic case design such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oa k, and later the Mickey Mouse watches . Currently, the Octo Collection still bears...
The BVLGARI BVLGARI Collection...
The collection that first comes to mind when talking about Bulgari watches. Established since 1977! NOVELTIES: BVLGARI BVLGARI Diagono Ceramic Diagono Ceramic As the name already hints, ceramics are a major feature of this year’s rejuvenation of this time...
On Chronograph Movements
I could swear that they used to use the F.Piguet 1185 in the BulgariBulgari chronograph... A
The Serpenti Collection...
The Serpenti collection is first and foremost a feminine jewelry collection, but it is much more than that. It is also a demonstration of skills acquired by the luxury house: “The interpretation of the serpent theme bears eloquent witness to the mul...
Our Conclusion!
One of the first appointments of this Basel fair, and it already gave us quite the full message: evolution instead of revolution. Notwithstanding the Carillon, Bulgari revisited their classics and added subtle improvements and/or expansions. The company p...
Fabulous report Magnus and Oliver!
I was hoping we would see more Endurer variants but guess not this year. Hopefully next year! I enjoyed both your commentaries and personal opinions, and keep up the great work you 2! Cheers, Anthony
Thank you Magnus and Olivier...
Enjoyed your report and especially the photos. I prefer them not to be clinical and your photos have some shadow , light and shade which brings out those gorgeous voluptuous shapes of the watches. Bravo. Cheers, dreamer
An interesting conclusion
Thanks, chaps, for the report and the surprising affordable favourite. There seems to be a convergence of strap design; the Diagono and X-Pro share commonality. One watch that sneaked in between two Baselworld shows (2011 and 2012) is the special edition ...
Another terrific report guys.
There was a lot to cover here and your insight is very thorough. Thanks again!
Thank you Magnus...
....for this excellent Bulgari report from Basel. The photos are amazing. Great to hear that Bulgari is giving reassurance that they intend to continue the DR and GG lines.
