Bulgari

[The Bulgari Octo photographed at the Bulgari Hotel Knightsbridge]

When I was given the chance to review the Bulgari Octo, their (relatively) new steel watch and bracelet, there were the usual doubts about the watch. How far is this a fashion item; or how far is it a watch with genuine haute horological content? The cynic in me was for the former argument; but the latter argument intrigued me. I knew along the way that Bulgari had acquired Gerald Genta SA and Daniel Roth SA, one being perhaps the most renowned watch designer; the latter being one of the most venerated watchmakers in the Swiss valleys. Bulgari had a tradition of watchmaking before the acquisition of the Swiss names; but the Swiss firms provided watchmaking knowledge and design acumen. So the real question is: how far is the Bulgari Octo the sum of the parts that now comprise Bulgari’s watchmaking division? Actually, despite my reservations when I started out to review the watch, the answer is yes! It might not be my first choice of watch, but is it a watch that is stylish, chic, robust to most conditions, and yet contains what most of us might define as horology (as much as other watches in the price range). There is an old adage: don’t judge a book by its cover. I would argue that in this instance, once you have moved past the: “But it’s Bulgari; they’re a jeweler!” premise, there is a watch here that is smart, stylish, and well-made.


[The Bulgari Octo works well as a dress watch against a suit. The slim profile of the watch allows it to slip below the cuff of the shirt]

Given the design heritage to the watch comparisons with some of Genta’s other designs: not least of which is the Royal Oak, will naturally be made. But in a sense, that is to be expected. Genta was the creative force behind a number of iconic watch designs in the twentieth century. Not only the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but the Patek Phillipe Ellipse and Nautilus, Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier, and the IWC Ingenieur. Genta started his own brand all the way back in 1969 out of which, in the creation of some of the most complex sonneries he created the Gérald Genta Octo Granda Sonnerie Tourbillion, which contained four gongs and an emulated Westminster quarters bell ring at each quarter and on the hour. The Octo can therefore be seen as an ‘in-house’ design by virtue of acquisition: and certainly as much Audemars, Patek, Cartier, and IWC can lay claim to their own iconic designs.


[Bulgari Octo reflecting the late afternoon light; the scratch marks at the 5 o’clock marker are due to the watch being a press loan watch.]

Genta was a smart designer. Choosing an eight-sided case shape is a good idea for a number of reasons. Eight has both special meaning in Chinese and Japanese language and culture, although for different reasons. For the Chinese, the similarity in tone between the number eight and the word for ‘generating wealth’ gives eight special meaning. For the Japanese, the eight gives an idea of growing prosperous because of the shape of the letter. Eight in mathematics, in architecture, has special properties. In Islamic art a typical element found decorating the walls and window screens of mosques and Muslim homes and buildings, is the elaborate application of repeating geometric forms that often echo the forms of plants, shapes and sometimes animals (in particular: birds). Eight as a geometric and Fibonacci number particularly lends itself to such patterns. So it is no surprise really that given the same designer, and the preponderance of eight in everyday life, that Bulgari have a watch named Octo.



So once you have moved on from the Bulgari name on the dial, how much haute horology is there in the watch? The first element to note is that this is a complex case design. Modifications have been made to Genta’s original design and the watch is now based on the incorporation of the lineage of Bulgari watch case designs. There is the familiar octagon pattern, but overlaid on that is the circular design of the “Bulgari Bulgari” and square elements from the “Bulgari Quadrato” (both of which are original Bulgari designs). The Octo design was intended to be that way: something borrowed and something original; a new design that contains elements of the past and presents a new design for the future. The case’s middle, bezel and caseback undergo more than 40 operations before they are even assembled, at Bulgari’s Finger casemaking facility. All 110 of the painstakingly sculpted facets (throughout case and bracelet) are meticulously polished or brushed by hand.


[The Octo “All Black” DLC treated case. Special dial. A stealth dress and sports watch. Made as part of Bulgari's sponsorship of the All Blacks rugby team]

I spoke with Fabrizio Buonamassa about the watch design; the gent was in charge of updating the Genta design and for the metal bracelet that adorns the watch. Buonamassa is Bulgari’s head designer for the watch division. A veteran of Italy’s car industry (he used to work for Fiat on the design for their car interiors), Buonamassa moved up from Rome (where he was already ensconced as Bulgari’s head of design) to Switzerland when Genta and Roth were acquired. He now has one of the more unenviable commutes in the world. Although this version of the Octo appeared at Basel in 2013, it had been in the works from 2011. For Fabrizio, the design goes back even further: to 2001 when he first joined the Bulgari design department and was given the task of overhauling the watch designs. Bulgari acquired Gerald Genta in 1999. Fabrizio’s first watch was the Octo. To Buonamassa the Octo was a sophisticated design; a mix of round and square shapes. The case design merges the geometric shapes of other watches in the Bulgari line.


[The complex case back to the Octo. The movement is ‘industrial’ in both finish and effect: it is there for timing and not as the focus of the watch]

Move on a decade and with the design for the Octo firmly established, the decision was taken to add the bracelet to the watch. For the bracelet, Buonamassa wanted something pure, simple; a clear and clean design. It has a soft and smooth feel. But there also had to be a design element that incorporated what a jeweler would bring to the manufacture of such a piece. Hence, the steel bracelet for the Octo is some of the more complex and intricate armory (get it!) you can have on your wrist. Finally, the dial is highly polished and black; that kind of black that looks like a puddle from which the some new form of life springs forth at the latest sci-fi film. I liked the clean lines and look; the only numbers being the 12 and the 6. The date window is discretely placed and does not interrupt the look of the dial itself.


[The side profile of the watch: the onyx end stone to the winder, but also the polished facets and surfaces of the case.]

On the wrist, the watch is exceedingly comfortable because of the design and manufacture of the bracelet. Despite the case size and dimensions, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist thanks to a finely constructed and intricate designed bracelet. As can be seen from the photos, the bracelet is adjustable in terms of links to a fine degree. Each element of the bracelet is polished on the edges, the middle section, and then a brushed surface applied to the ends. The links are purposefully small in width giving the overall construction flexibility to bind to almost any wrist of any size. Because of the differences in shading across the metal surfaces, when worn on the wrist the light reflects over the now curved surface and catches the eye. It is a substantial watch in terms of “wrist presence”. And a great deal of that can be attributed to the design of the watch case and bracelet together. An analogy that might best describe the watch bracelet stems from Venetian blinds for a window. Adjust the blinds to varying degrees, and the blinds reflect more or less light away from the room; allowing less or more light to enter the room. Same principle with the flat polished sections to the bracelet: the light reflects at the different angles of the polished surfaces.


[The intricate make-up of the bracelet for the Octo in steel]

The movement that lies inside the elaborate case is a ‘workman’ like movement. Bulgari describe it as a ‘manufacture’ movement on their website; and although they have produced in-house movements in the past, there is doubt on whether this is one. Most of the received wisdom on the matter believes that the movement is Vaucher (the movement manufacture owned by Parmigiani and supplier of high quality movements to some of the noted houses of the watch industry: most notably Hermes). The movement is designed to deliver accurate timekeeping. Simple as that! The decoration on the movement is perfunctory and there to help the movement run as it should. The escapement is regulated; like so many similar watches of this type. However, it is worth noting that the other Genta designs, the Royal Oak and Nautilus, carry free-sprung movements and for a watch of this quality it would be a nice thing to see! But that’s being a little pedantic! The BVL193 movement has two barrels, a 50 hour power reserve, and its assembled at Bulgari’s Neuchâtel manufacture and simply named after the number of components contained therein.





Overall, the Bulgari Octo should not be passed by simply because it has a jewelers name on the dial. A number of now famous jewelers have a long history in the watch industry. Cartier and Boucheron are among some of the better known. Cartier’s history spans back well over a century and has only recently started to develop their own movements. Recent new boys on the block: Ralph Lauren did a deal with Richemont for movements. Fashion and jewelry houses are getting very serious about watches and developing their own capabilities and brand identity. Bulgari have the same ambitions; and with the Octo those ambitions are well served. To develop their own watches, movements, and all parts in between. The Octo is just that: distinctively Bulgari and will be the standard bearer design for the years to come.


[The Bulgari Octo photographed outside of the Bulgari Hotel in Knightsbridge, London].

Andrew H This message has been edited by 219 on 2014-11-24 04:05:54 This message has been edited by 219 on 2014-11-24 04:07:54

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