Bulgari

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Bulgari Seduces at Baselworld with the Serpenti 2012 Collection

The Serpenti 2012 watches saw a contemporary interpretation of a historical classic – the coiled snake watch.  A couple of years ago, Bulgari had already released Serpenti watches that were inspired by models from their past.  This year, they created additional variations on the Serpenti theme that focused more on enameling and diamond accents.  Bulgari outdid themselves with the most recent collection by combining the luxurious look of diamonds, a lot of them, with stylish enameling and superior craftsmanship.  The detailing and intricate gem work is exquisite and although may not be for every woman, would certainly not bypass the envious stares of every woman.

Much to my surprise, I am a big fan of the Serpenti watches despite the quartz movement and flashy design.  I can't say that, 3 years ago, you would have caught me wearing a snake-like piece of jewelry, let alone a watch that stylistically resembled a serpent.  I would have left that fashion statement to the JLos and Beyonces of the world, those sexy, strong women with dominating appearances. I would even have had a hard time picturing Julianne Moore sporting a gold snake if it weren't for her scantily clad ad photos. The unique design and complicated manufacturing process won me over.  This year, Bulgari stretched the boundaries of its design imagination and gave their snakes some fancy, sparkling, scales and faces. The interpretations are dynamic, intricate and beg for something that all women desire which is quite simply, to be noticed.

Bulgari's Serpenti watches have always been the ultimate embodiment of superior goldsmith skills.  This year, the collection focuses on enameled double-wrap coils, gem-set pink gold and richly decorated dials.  Inspired by Bulgari's historical collection that has been given a contemporary twist, this sophisticated and elegant new group carries sinuous lines and shapes that flow around the wrist like a "precious and luminous river."

The Hand Crafted Process – Serpenti 2012

Without a doubt, the Serpenti line displays Bulgari's amazing diversity of talents from creativity in design to superiority in craftsmanship. The model is created from a lengthy hand-crafted procedure in which each of the bracelet links, resembling the scales of a snake, is shaped and finished by hand.

The 18-carat gold bracelet part of the watches is crafted according to traditional goldsmith techniques which consist of wrapping two coils of a diaphanous precious metal structure twice around the wrist, covering them with jet black or ivory white enamel scales set with brilliant-cut diamonds inspired by the historical creations of the company.  Despite its complexity, the bracelet ensures ideal comfort on the wrist.

The black or ivory white enameled pink gold links making up the articulated bracelet of the Serpenti pieces are individually prepared by hand and set with brilliant-cut diamonds before the cold-enamel is applied to the cavities created specifically for this purpose using a dedicated tool.  The artisan then spreads out the material smoothly using a brush, before placing a drop of transparent enamel on top of the first layer – a delicate operation designed to give a rounded curve to each of the bracelet elements. The enamel and diamond accents create a bold geometric pattern that gives the watch a more dynamic  and somewhat art-deco appearance. 

At each stage in applying the enamel, the link is fired in the furnace in order to fix the matter in its appointed place.  Once this process is complete, the links are ready to be assembled.  A tiny hand-crafted hinge links them to each other before their lower end is fitted with an 18-carat white gold internal spring that will enable them to slide smoothly over the wrist, and the watch itself is secured to the bracelet. 

The reptile head-shaped watch case makes up the starting point of the bracelet.  It holds a Swiss quartz movement custom make for Bulgari.  It is set on either side with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds framing a dial – in black sapphire or white mother-of-pearl depending on the version and consisting of 12 diamond-set hour markers. 

For this trio of Serpenti watches that combines diamonds and enamel, I find the black version to be the boldest of the 3. The white is much more subtle but I have to say that if I had to choose, I would prefer the rose gold/diamond combo.  It's a stunning clean look with diamonds just floating across the surface like looking up at a starlit sky. 

New Serpenti Tubogas

The new pink gold version of the Serpenti Tubogas has a fully paved dial of 190 brilliant-cut diamonds.  The case is crafted in 18 carat pink gold with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds adorning its edges.  The completely diamond encrusted dial will catch even more attention from admirers compared to its predecessor which had diamonds only on the bezel, serving as merely an accent. The Serpenti 7 Coil also had a pave dial but it had seven coils to hold up to the indulgent look.   I almost have to say that I like the balance and simplicity of the previous version better. 

The stainless steel Serpenti also got a new face.  Compared to the pink gold model, this one is more abstract and comprising more thought to its design which consists of alternating angled and curved lines that touch with each other creating segmented stylized look of snake skin.  One small section is purposefully encrusted with diamonds.  This black face, steel version is a bit more interesting and unusual.  However, I would still prefer to have a normal watch dial so that it is still easily recognizable as a timepiece. 

Bulgari's Serpenti Watches do make a bold statement for any woman.  There needs to be a certain confidence to be present in order to wear it the right way, an understanding of style, allure and distinctiveness. But I can see how any woman would be attracted to it, even if she lacked the desire to wear it. There is something about it that simply draws you in. It's mysterious, luxurious, empowering and it can't be helped.  There is nothing like it that you can find from another jewelry brand or store.  You probably couldn't even get a custom made replica because of the complexity of the construction process.  When you wear a Serpenti watch, the design dominates over the mechanics and you are left with suppleness in line and beauty in form.

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