Bulgari

Dear All:

Bulgari, formerly known as a jewellery/luxury brand made serious foray into the world of fine watches. It started already in 1977 with the launch of the BVLGARI BVLGARI watch which has received a cult status amongst collectors. Only 5 years later, in 1982, Bulgari Time, a company dedicated to watchmaking, was created in Neuchâtel.

From these beginnings Bulgari pursued the aim of becoming more and more independent in watchmaking terms, acquiring Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta as well as component companies such as Cadrans Design, a producer of dials for high-end watches, and Prestige d’Or, a specialist in the production of metal watchstraps.

In 2009 Bulgari could present its first manufacture watch with proprietary movement and all components completely produced and assembled in-house, the Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, named after the founder of the company. For a presentation please click here.

Novelties – we saw several pieces from their Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, BVLGARI BVLGARI, as well as Serpenti collections.

We will start with the first two lines which deserve special attention as both have been recently acquired and are continuously integrated within the entire Bulgari universe. We were eager to learn if and how Bulgari intends to further develop them.

We asked Guido Terreni, Managing Director of Bulgari’s watch business unit, whether Bulgari intends to further develop the two lines or whether they want to slowly reduce their visibility (and eventually abandon them). Mr Terreni assured us that Bulgari is committed to further developing the two lines. He added that Bulgari acquired much needed watchmaking expertise with those two brands. He conceded that this is seen as a valuable complement to the firm’s mastery of interpreting contemporary styles and trends (the Italian roots, sic!), it adds the credible content. With both Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta Bulgari aims to achieve a balanced level of skills in design as well as in expertise. 

More concretely, Giudo Terreni suggests that with Genta the imminent task is to add balance to the watch and to reduce the overdesign, whereas the Roth watches need a more contemporary touch.

In other words: Bulgari aims to create synergies and cross-fertilsation by combining the design and execution with the watchmaking skills.

Let’s take a closer look on the novelties and see how this turns out in practice.

A first hint at what would follow was already prominently placed adjacent to the entrance lobby of the impressive two-story Bulgari booth. Two captivating kinetic/acoustic installations drew us there, the first one representing a tonewood arrangement (-> can we expect a repeating watch?)…

And now, let's start!

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