Bulgari

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What do you think of Bulgari now?

Bulgari Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie Quantieme Perpetual

Just a little over two years ago Bulgari announced that Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta would be integrated into the longstanding Italian luxury brand.  Not too long after we began seeing modernized, cleaner looking Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta watches with the BVLGARI logo on the dials.  At the time some members of the community thought the change to be a complete travesty.  Others were more open to the idea, understanding the struggles of smaller brands to survive in today’s mega marketing budget watch world. 

Bulgari Daniel Roth Endurer All Blacks

Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta had all the technical and artistic assets to produce exceptional watches but lacked a large enough base clientele to survive on their own.  What they needed more than anything was a few “bread and butter” type models that appealed more to a mainstream audience, sell a lot and fund the “niche” side of the brands.  Companies that are more specialized and sustain longevity do well with straddling the line between artistic self loyalty and expression and a keen business sense.  Perhaps this is true in any industry that deals in products with some sort of creative input. 

 Bulgari Gerald Genta Octo Bi-Retro

There was a consensus, begrudgingly accepted by some that the partnership between Bulgari and Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta would at least ensure the survival of the two brands for the time being.  Bulgari had the large base clientele and international exposure that they could greatly benefit from.  Couple that with over 150 years of history, vast resources to design, develop and produce, hundreds of established sales outlets and you had the makings of a guaranteed path of continuance.  The only thing that wasn’t an absolute was assurance of the same in terms of design.  This was perhaps the hardest part for some of the original fans to swallow.  The loss of DR and GG’s original “DNA” and also the staff that helped to create it.  It wasn’t going to be likely that everyone from the original manufactures would be able to keep their jobs but I do believe that a number of them did remain.

Bulgari Gerald Genta Magsonic Grande Sonnerie

Variance in the actual watches was a likely occurrence because Bulgari had to get something out of it for itself as well.  The extraordinary watches that DR and GG produced early on, while still under Bulgari’s financial backing did not translate into the sales volume perhaps that the supporters would have liked to see.  I would venture and guess that the profits alone frankly did not amount to much alongside the global luxury brand’s wide portfolio of products from accessories to jewelry, watches, fragrances and even hotels.  Bulgari eventually took initiative saving the two brands while at the same time making sure there was growth opportunity in it for the company as well.  What they sought was entrance into the world of haute horology as a serious contender.  This was evident early on as they strategically placed themselves for vertical integration with acquisitions of Cadrans Design (a dial maker) and Prestige D’Or (a watch bracelet maker); and then of the Swiss casemaker, Finger in 2008.  It seemed that absorbing Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta and all their technical watchmaking genius was the next logical step. 

Bulgari Daniel Roth Papillon Voyageur

In the last two years Bulgari has had a chance to show the world what they can do with the elements of their integration into the high and complicated market of watches.  They’ve released Bulgari brand Gerald Genta Octos and Geficas.  They’ve went to the extremes with the Tourbillon Sapphire, Magsonic and Grand Sonnerie.  Daniel Roth models saw public release as well with the Papillon Chronograph and Voyageur, Tourbillon Lumiere and the ultra impressive Grande Sonnerie which was publicly announced at our very own IGOTT2 event in Las Vegas last year.  The much anticipated Daniel Roth Endurer finally reached public sale and met Bulgari’s own creative rendition at Baselworld last year in the All Blacks version.  This year they are embracing grandes complications in the Daniel Roth line with the Carillon Tourbillon, a watch that focuses on aesthetic in accordance with function. 

Bulgari Daniel Roth Carillon Tourbillon

The company has also brought commercial partnerships in contact with the two niche brands, first with the All Blacks and now with the new Gerald Genta Octo Maserati.  And although not relative to DR or GG but noteworthy nonetheless, is Bulgari’s role in the PuristS 10^th IGOTT2 event and their contribution to the P10 line of watches with the Bulgari Diagono P10 Watch.  The case construction and dial alone are enough to convince any serious watch connoisseur of Bulgari’s arrival into the very exclusive class of serious watchmaking. 

Bulgari Diagono X-Pro P10 

It is quite an impressive roster of accomplishments by Bulgari which has brought us to this point, two years later and I ask the question to the community – What do you think of Bulgari now?  Has your opinion of the Italian mega brand changed?  Is your perception of them broader now to possibly view them as a watch brand as well as a jewelry brand? 

Two years ago I asked the public a question, “For the Daniel Roth/Gerald Genta by Bulgari skeptics, what would the circumstances have to be in order for you to consider buying one of these watches?  An unbeatable design and look?  A "great" and "fine" movement?  Extreme value for the money?  The chance to own one of the firsts?  All of the above?  Doing away with the BVLGARI name on the dial altogether?”  One person questioned whether the staff would be knowledgeable enough to sell the watches.  What have you noticed?  Have you visited a Bulgari boutique recently and from your observations, did they know what they were talking about when it came to the Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta pieces?

Are you more likely now to consider buying one now as opposed to two years ago? 

For me, if my pockets were deep enough, I certainly would.  I am more likely today to purchase one as opposed to two years ago.  When I look at one of their Grande Sonneries, Toubrillons or Octos I don’t even take notice of the names on the dial anymore.  I just see the beautiful lines, the smart combination of metals, colors and finishes and the movement.  I have been blown away by Bulgari’s conscientious balance between technical excellence and aesthetic allure.  I understand now why their history is such a lasting, rich and integral part of their success.  It is inherent in their impeccable taste and complete understanding of style, what looks good with what, balance and harmony.  Yet they do not ignore their customers or the current style atmosphere either.  They know how much to design and when to stop “designing” so as to not fall into the trap that often plagues some smaller niche brands that suffer from design overkill and lose site of the bigger picture of sustainability.  I believe that true success is a dynamic process that requires constant balance and adjustment and Bulgari, it appears in their quest to grow the brand’s watch business, is well on their way to achieving it. 

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