BVLGARI Collection Gerald Genta Octo Repetition Minutes Retro & Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon

Mar 21, 2010,15:42 PM
 

BVLGARI COLLECTION GERALD GENTA

OCTO RÉPÉTITION MINUTES RETRO & OCTO GRANDE SONNERIE TOURBILLON

Striking or chiming watch mechanisms are some of the most refined complications, and also some of the hardest to fully master.Sounds have been associated with horology for a very long time: they were formerly used to mark the passing of time between sunrise and sunset, the days and the seasons, or to signal important community events.

From Medieval times onwards, a watchman stationed in a tower was responsible for calling out the hours based on his observation of the position of the stars in the sky; sailors also used a bell or a whistle to announce changes of watch on deck.  With the birth and development of the mechanical measurement of time, large-sized timekeeping instruments – bell tower clocks – replaced human beings in this role.  Technological progress progressively miniaturising steeple clocks to pocket watches, and finally to wrist watch form.  Nonetheless, the use of audible signals has consistently accompanied this evolution.

Striking mechanisms are currently considered the very peak of horological complexity, due both to the intricate nature of the mechanism itself and to the metallurgical technology employed in creating them.  Only a handful of brands truly master this unique form of expertise.  This year, Bulgari is presenting two exceptional creations, the Octo Répétition Minutes Retro and the Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon.


OCTO RÉPÉTITION MINUTES RETRO




Octo Répétition Minutes Retro with jumping hours and retrograde minutes belongs to this category of masterpieces of horological micromechanical engineering that express the passing of time in sound.  On demand, meaning by sliding a dedicated bolt, the user can choose to have it strike the hours, quarters and minutes: each hour on a low-pitched note, each quarter-hour on two low/high-pitched notes and each minute on a high-pitched note.  The cadence of the G and C notes sounded is optimised: the 31 notes required to sound 11:59 chime out in around 15 seconds, which is neither too slow nor too fast and creates a melodious and easily audible sound.

The striking mechanism activates two gongs set to a third musical interval to differentiate between the hours, quarter-hours and minutes.  The lower gong strikes the hours, the gong set to the upper fourth musical interval strikes the minutes, and both are used to strike the quarter-hours.  Within the family of Grand Complication models, this watch is distinguished by a combination of a minute repeater mechanism with a jumping-hour display and retrograde minutes indication.  This masterpiece embodies a stunning blend of exclusive contemporary design and noble watchmaking traditions.

It features an exquisitely crafted dial with a guilloché and cloisonné décor, featuring  a retrograde minute hand running across a 180° arc appearing on the right-hand side of the dial, while the jumping-hour window-type display is located in the traditional position at 9 o’clock. The white gold case of the Octo Répétition Minutes Retro is adorned with two beaded crowns.The one at 3 o’clock serves to adjust the usual time functions,and the second to activate the repeater mechanism.  They are both set with a falcon’s eye cabochon.


Octo Répétition Minutes Retro in a nutshell:

Mechanical self-winding movement, minute repeater, jumping hours and retrograde minutes display; 21,600 vph, 42-hour power reserve.
43 mm white gold case, transparent caseback, 18-carat white gold crowns set with a falcon’s eye cabochon; cloisonné dial, water-resistant to 30 metres.
Alligator leather strap, triple-blade folding clasp in 18-carat white gold.



OCTO GRANDE SONNERIE TOURBILLON




Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon is the ultimate embodiment of horological complexity, and all the more so in that the self-winding movement driving it is fitted with a Tourbillon regulator, a retrograde hour display, a long with power-reserve indicators for the movement and the striking mechanism.  This exceptional movement, Calibre GG 31002, is an amazing distillate of excellence and symbolises several centuries of human and horological history.

The complexity of the twin-barrel movement naturally lies in the number of components:  863 in all.  It is also symbolised by the internal organs dedicated to sound, or rather to the different types of sound that this musical work of art is capable of playing.  For in this model, the supremely accomplished watchmaking art is matched by parameters specifically relating to the fields of metallurgy and acoustic science.

The gongs are made from a special steel alloy with a diameter similar to that of a piano string playing the high notes.  The four gongs inside the Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon are suspended between the movement and the inner surface of the case, thus enabling them to vibrate freely and to produce their sounds without any impediment.  Each of them has a different length in order to produce its own specific sound, and each corresponds to a hammer that hits a specific spot on the gong.  The rhythm, the speed and the strength of the strike are important in generating the purest and clearest sound possible.

Thanks to its 4 gongs, the Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon is capable of playing the tune of Big Ben (Westminster/London).  This authentic masterpiece can also perform two major audible functions: the Grande Sonnerie (grand strike) and Petite Sonnerie (small strike).
In Grande Sonnerie mode, the mechanism strikes the hours, and then repeaters the hour each time it is preparing to strike the following quarters – first, second and third – just like a clock tower bell.  This striking mode known as “inpassing” operates automatically, without any intervention by the owner of the watch.  Meanwhile, the Petite Sonnerie mode also sounds the hour and the first, second and third quarters in passing.  One may of course also opt for the silence mode.  And finally, the Repeater mode indicates the time whenever the wearer wishes by activating the repeater slide which triggers the striking mechanism.  This mode is referred to as “on demand”.


The right-hand side (between 1 and 5 o’clock) of the dial with its alternating black lacquered, cloisonné segments, carries the strike/silent, striking-mechanism power reserve, time-indication power reserve and strike-mode selector (Grande/Petite Sonnerie) indications.  It also accommodates the minute disc.  Its left-hand side displays a retrograde hours indication.  The white gold case is adorned with two beaded crowns serving to adjust the time functions (at 3 o’clock) and to activate the striking mechanism (at 9 o’clock).

This exceptional creation is all the rarer in that the watchmaker responsible for assembling its movement takes over a year to accomplish this daunting task…

 
Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon in a nutshell:

Self-winding movement, Grande Sonnerie Westminster Chime, retrograde hours display, power-reserve indicators, disc-type minutes display; 21,600 vph, 48-hour power reserve.
43 mm white gold case, transparent caseback, 18-carat white gold crown set with a falcon’s eye cabochon; cloisonné dial, water-resistant to 30 metres.
Alligator leather strap, triple-blade folding clasp in 18-carat white gold.

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Wow! That Sonnerie is VERY cool!

 
 By: ThomasM : March 22nd, 2010-15:47
Love the car dashboard gauge concept! Can't wait to hear it in person... TM

...Which reminds me if I've seen the grand sonnerie before back when....

 
 By: ED209 : March 22nd, 2010-19:36
Hi TM, The 'gauges' on the dial is really cool. I can't wait to hear it in person too, and I wonder how the sonnerie resonates in the white gold Octo case. If my memory serves me correctly, I recall our PPro Kuwait trip where we had a special dinner with ...  

Wow! Where are the pictures of that? [nt]

 
 By: pingtsai : March 24th, 2010-09:23
No message body

It was amazing....

 
 By: DRMW : March 24th, 2010-09:46
Besides the video screen, the watch case pops up to display the GG, Too cool for school! Let me see if I have some pics. -MW

It was at the PuristS 2008 Kuwait GTG at the...

 
 By: ED209 : March 25th, 2010-18:17
Hi Ping, We had an amazing trip joining the PuristS 2008 Kuwait/Dubai/Abu Dhabi GTG. The Gerald Genta event was held at the Chairmans Club in Kuwait City. The views were absolutely breath taking from the helipad: Regards, ED-209...  

Looks like Bulgari...

 
 By: pingtsai : March 24th, 2010-09:29
...isn't messing too much with the original Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta designs which is great to see. The Bulgari name is visible but understated. It actualy seems as though they've cleaned up a a lot of the looks to have more universal appeal. I really...