Response to pingtsai

Sep 20, 2011,12:00 PM
 

I don't find D. Roth's designs exciting neither does the watch market generally. It is no a desirable watch and doesn't sell well. There is no secret that many designers want to get out of the constraint of the round, tonneau, square shapes, but we always return to those time tested shapes. All those models that have tried have failed or done badly regardless of the mechanism or movement. Look for example at the Parmigiani Bugatti, exceptional movement but you can't even give the watch away. Uhrwerk is another example of bad taste, although it is doing better than the rest. The only brand that has succeeded is Cartier, for example Les Delices models or Captive. Cartier has been able to capture the imagination of buyers and the passion/urge to own the watches, although those models are more for women.


Again, it is no secret, the best sellers are the round watches followed by tonneau, rectangular and square and this is not by chance. It is because it has been proven again and again that esthetically it is the most pleasing to the eye.

Bulgari is another story altogether. It started mostly as a jewelry house and branched out in horology. The early designs captivated the imagination of women and men alike and the BVLGARI engraving on the bezel was an instant hit and widely imitated. It has become Bulgari's signature. Later designs have been relative failures, I am thinking here of the ladies Assioma model which looks like a glorified Longines or the horrible Ergon.

Bulgari should employ new, young designers. A very inspiring one is Mr. S Lacroix in Geneva. I have seen his work and find it exceptional, mixing avant grade with classicism with respect to aesthetics.

To come back to the All Black model, it look obvious that the new owners of Bulgari want to use a veteran of the industry (Daniel Roth) with very good work on the movements, but they have bet on the wrong horse with the hated D Roth case shape. I would have liked to see a mix of classic Bulgari with a melange of the Maori inspiration. The tattoo is not a bad idea. Look at Vacherons Masque collection.

I am sure All Black aficionados might buy the All black model but the true test is whether they will wear it after all the hype as passed.....


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 By: pingtsai : March 24th, 2011-16:06
Bulgari presents at Basel 2011: The New Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks Special Edition For months now, there has been speculation and hopes of an all-black version of the Endurer. Well, the wait is over. Straight from Basel 2011 we bring you the first li...  

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 By: Silvery : September 20th, 2011-07:46
What a horrible watch. What happened to Bulgari's designers. If I was an All Black team member, I would bury my head. The watch design is the first thing a person sees. It has to stir emotion, passion and the urge to own it. The Maori design is totally lo... 

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 By: Silvery : September 20th, 2011-07:51
There is a reason why the models of Daniel Roth are not successful and the new owners of Bulgari have decided to revive the shape of a loosing model and place their bets on the success of the All Black. The idea is great but the result is disappointing.

Thank you...

 
 By: pingtsai : September 20th, 2011-10:06
...for expressing your opinion. It is always appreciated here. I guess it's a matter of personal taste. Did you always not prefer Daniel Roth designs or were there some that you liked better. And what about Bulgari's more classic signature models?

Response to pingtsai

 
 By: Silvery : September 20th, 2011-12:00
I don't find D. Roth's designs exciting neither does the watch market generally. It is no a desirable watch and doesn't sell well. There is no secret that many designers want to get out of the constraint of the round, tonneau, square shapes, but we always...