Bulgari

A 1970 Bulgari advertisement showcasing the Tubogas and the Serpent made in different precious
materials. Since then, the Serpentine form has been one of the central themes
of Bulgari's production and heritage. 




The thousand-year-old symbol of the Serpent was encountered not only in many ancient civilizations, culture, myths and
traditions around the world but also in works of authors, poets and artists too.  It is a symbol of great power representing
regeneration, resurrection and immortality in Aztecs and Egyptians civilizations.

The serpent motif is constantly present in the history of jewelry design during the time of the Egyptian cult of Isis, and began spreading
to the Roman world. Numerous jewelery items then were multi-spiral gold bracelets with scales and eyes made from gemstones.
As it was also associated with the devil, the serpent motif disappeared completely at the medieval Europe.  It reappeared around
1890 onward,and the serpent motif was a recurring theme in the jewelery of the Art Nouveau movement.

Among the jewelers who successfully reintroduced the serpent motif in the 20th century, Bulgari claimed to be the first
to adapt it to a  wristwatch.  Bulgari's first model of the snake-shaped bracelet-watches dated back to about 1949,
and were in the shape of the stylized serpent with coils either joined by the
tubogas technique or in gold mesh that wrapped around the wrist.


In 1962, Elizabeth Taylor discovered Bulgari while working on the Cleopatra in Rome.
 The actress 'immortalized' the Serpenti bracelet-watch when a piece was
photographed coiling on her wrist.


Elizabeth Taylor with a Bulgari Serpenti bracelet-watch on the Cleopatra set


 
Elizabeth Taylor's watch with the naturalistic serpent head and tail in platinum, diamond pave with emerald eyes. The head opened
to reveal a circular watch in white-gold with a  Jaeger LeCoultre movement.  Body made of tubular
'scales' in yellow gold joined by the Tubogas technique. 
Other variations were made and housed with movements from Audemar Piguet, JLC, Movado and
Vacheron Constantin customised for Bulgari.




2009 , to celebrate the 125th anniversary, Bulgari, presented a new collection of one of their bold icons, the Snake. 
The new Serpenti Collection comes in a variety of forms, transforming its sinuous and flexible body into
wrap-around bracelets, rings and jewel-watches.

Sixty years after their first appearance, Bulgari  reinterprets the Serpent watches collection by combining
the classic  Bulgari style with contemporary and elegant line.


2009 Serpenti Reinterpretation


The new collection includes five models in pink and white gold, single or double coil by playing on colours through
refined decorations with diamonds, coloured gemstones and mother-of-pearl
on the scales (individual links which simulate the scale of the snake's skin).



2009 Serpenti Collection - Pink Gold


2009 Serpenti Collection - White Gold



Every components making up of the Serpenti Watch is designed and made down to the finest details by the Bulgari
master craftsmen.


To comprehend and appreciate the collection, let's briefly walk through   the making of the Serpenti
and hopefully some of you could see and realise  the strength of watch company with strong jewelery experience.



All designs started with sketches (not computer aided drawing CAD)  then discussed and brain-stormed
and back to drawing board again.  The iterations continues till a finalised agreed design.

Next is prototyping and wax models of part created to fabricate the molds.

Real gold parts are then casted out with the molds.

The Serpenti collection basically consists of the Snake head, the body and the tail. 

The body is made up of individual component  which simulate the creature's scales'.

Each scale consists of two parts, a top portion (for diamond pave) and a 'sides & bottom' portion
which like a mesh, with openings to allow light to enter and accentuate the sparkle of the pave.

Once the top and 'sides-bottom' halves are assembled, they are soldered together.



A view of the 'scales' (from the reverse side) showing the side and bottom openings.
From the above picture, the light will enter from the sides of the Serpenti.



After the 'varying width and height scales' halves are soldered, the diamonds are then pave set.
Every  'scale' component is tapered at one end and could be slotted into the subsequent 'scale'
forming the sinuous body.


A picture showing the diamonds being pave set  onto the scales after both halves were soldered together.


Similarly the two parts are soldered to form the head of the Serpenti and then the diamonds are pave set.


When the head and one scale are assembled together, a gold pin is inserted to join the scales.

The setting to the head could have many variations, the picture above is baguette set.


The body of the Serpenti also could come in different variants. 
It could be entirely in precious metal or alternation of motifs in pave (as the above picture with pink coral).


The 'scales' are joined by gold pins, one at a time, until the entire body is formed in either single or double coils.
The gold pins are later flushed with scale surface till invisible.



After joining up the scales forming the body and just before closing with the tail, an flexible spring in gold was inserted
to maintain the elasticity of the coils.





Some pictures of the Serpenti Watch....


White Gold case and double coils bracelet with pave-set diamond scales, white Mother of Pearl dial with diamond indexes


Pink Gold case and single coil bracelet with alternating pave-set diamond and Onyx scales, black mother of pearl dial with
diamond indexes


Pink Gold case and double coils bracelet with pave-set diamond scales, black mother of pearl dial with diamond indexes

The 2009 collection of Serpenti Watches housed the Calibro B031 Quartz movement build specially to fit into the
odd shape head of the Serpent.




A couple of pictures of the Serpenti Bracelets and Rings


One of the Serpenti Bracelets, yellow gold double coil with alternating mother of pearl and pave set diamond scales (7.50 cts)


The Serpenti Rings, very good design, as due to the coil elasticity, the ring could suit varying diameter of the fingers, thus
allowing the owner to wear on most of her fingers





Wrist Shots with the Serpenti Pieces


Serpenti Watch, Pink gold case & Bracelet, black MoP with diamond indexes  accompanies by matching
Serpenti Ring Pink gold coil and pave set diamond head (0.56 cts)


White Gold watch case and double coils bracelet with pave-set diamond scales, white Mother of Pearl dial with diamond indexes
with full paved White gold ring (1.95 cts)


A close up of the double coil full pave watch


White gold Single coil Serpenti Watch with alternating pave


An interesting Pink Gold combination of bracelets, watch and ring ...
Single coil Serpenti bracelet with onyx head and pave-set diamond scales (8.44 cts) with a
Single coil with alternating pave set diamond and onyx scales  with black MoP dial and diamond indexes with
a Serpenti ring with onyx head and alternating pave set diamond scales (0.88 cts)


Another angle ...



Wow!  Two pieces of the pink gold Serpenti bracelets with a Serpenti Watch


A full frontal shot with all three


A closing shot of the beautiful Serpenti Bracelets, yellow gold double coil with alternating iridescent mother of pearl
and pave set diamond scales (7.50 cts)



Thanks to my friend who modeled all the pieces on her hand


Hope you enjoy reading and discover the intricacy of the hand-craftsmanship of the Bulgari artisans.


Kong

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